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Fashion business advice
5 issues factories have with fashion startups.

There's no doubt that launching a clothing line is tough. It takes dedication, knowledge and time. Many of my clients find dealing with manufacturers the hardest part. It can take a while to find a good fit for your product, and the sampling process can feel laborious, so making sure you've got your process streamlined will help.



fashion startup
Make yourself a desirable startup client.



Often start-ups take an unconventional approach with factories, because they don't know any better and this sometimes leads to frustrations from potential suppliers. In turn the startup can feel deflated, deterred and not sure how to move forward. Learn the processes involved and educate yourself in the stages of manufacture.


I've put together the top 5 issues factories have with fashion startups and some tips to help you avoid these.


1. Lack Of Design Information


One of the biggest time wasting approaches I see amongst start-ups is contacting a prospective manufacturer without any tangible information in the form of completed CAD designs, tech packs and size specs. You might know what you want to launch in your fashion range, however a collection of photos, rough ideas and a vision is not going to cut it with a factory.

At best you'll end up with some cobbled together samples that don't represent your ideas. At worst you'll come across as unprofessional, a newbie they'll have to hand-hold and probably someone they don't have time to coach.

This raw information is what you should discuss with someone like myself - a designer, not a factory. It's tempting to be pro-active and find a factory early on, but you have a much better chance of striking a professional relationship with a potential supplier if you can hand over factory packs for each style.



Tech pack and fashion flat
Create professional factory packs for each style


2. You Don't Speak The Fashion Language


Understanding the correct fashion terminology will help you extensively when discussing your designs with a factory. Take some time to find out the relevant vocabulary that describes your styles, whether that be the fabric quality, the types of trims being used and any special details that make up your design. This information should be itemised in your factory packs from your designer, but make sure you can converse with your supplier in the language of the industry and understand the details. If you can't then use a fashion consultant who will have your back every step of the way.



Fashion designer & consultant
Use an expert in fashion to help you

3. Unrealistic Expectations


Being aware of minimum order quantities versus price per unit is incredibly important. It's great to have target prices that you hope to produce something for, but if you only want to produce something small like 50 pieces per style then the price is going to reflect that small order.

Equally so, your small MOQ may have an affect on how many colours you can order per style, how specific you can be with base fabrics and how much it will cost to produce anything specific to your brand such as branded hardware.


4. Unworkable Timelines


When you hand over your designs for manufacture, the samples won't appear instantly. Your prototypes will take less time than your bulk production, however you should always allow enough time for re-sampling, allowing for your factory's workload and general turn around time. Each factory will have a different lead time, often booked up weeks to months in advance depending on the time of year. Just because you're ready to go doesn't mean you can dictate timescales for your suppliers. Utilise a realistic fashion calendar to plan your critical path.



Fashion factory
Be realistic with times and expectations


5. Unwillingness To Compromise


It's great to aim for that gold standard with your collection but sometimes a little compromise goes a long way. It may be your factory can't source the exact composition of fabric specified in your tech pack, however if they have an alternative does it also do the same job? Sometimes your need for small MOQ's might dictate what you can do in terms of design for branded items like buttons, badges, labels and trims. You may have a better chance at getting what you're looking for by using an available quality and branding that.



ree
Understand where to compromise.


In summary the main takeaways here are:


1. Prepare your designs in a professional manner with all technical and sizing information in place.

2. Do your homework and liaise with your designer to understand what it is you're asking for.

3. Research MOQs.

4. Be realistic with your timeline.

5. Compromising will get you a long way.


If you need help launching your fashion brand then get in touch and we can discuss your needs - info@thefashionexpert.co.uk


Michelle Ramsay - The Fashion Expert®


Earlier this year I had the pleasure of working with Aurore Martins, CEO of LIA M.W on a womens' polo shirt range tailored exclusively by women.


Ladies poloshirt range
Copyright LIA M.W


Aurore is originally from France but now resides in Ireland, and wanted to create a label with a subtle combination of traditional clothing and new fashion trends.


The whole process was really fun for me to work on, right from our initial consultation where we discussed the design ideas, the viability of the brand, and Aurore's concerns and questions regarding launching a fashion brand.


Next came the design stage, creating colourful prints ( which are still to come) as well as feminine yet colourful polo styles which were different with their cut and sew panel detailing, contrast details and trims.


With further consultations we prepared for dealing with factories, sampling and production.


I recently interviewed Aurore on what it's like to set up a clothing line and here is an overview.


Can you introduce yourself, your position and your brand


My name is Aurore Martins and I’m the company director of LIA M.W clothing label.

I’ve recently launched this label that I’ve imagined and created with three amazingly skilled women : Michelle Ramsay, a 15 years experienced fashion designer;

Violaine Malie, who is a very talented web designer; and Trazanne Norwood, an award-winning professional photographer.

This fashion label is a subtle combination between traditional clothing and new fashion trends.

Our first summer collection features four elegant and very girly polo shirts.


Aurore Martins
Copyright LIA M.W

What do you sell and who are your customers?


LIA MW. polo shirt range has been tailored exclusively by women and for women.

We specialise in women polo shirts. All our designs are unique, timeless and elegant.

Our polo shirts have been designed to be comfortable to wear and to last for decades in your wardrobes.

And our future collections will also feature more items to complete your looks (such as jumper, chinos…).

As mentioned earlier, LIA M.W celebrates women as creative team members, but also celebrates women around the world.

Indeed we will donate a considerable amount of our net profits to a charity, which helps women accessing to education.


What was your background prior to launching in the fashion industry?


I have been working in sales for years before creating my own marketing company three years ago.

What I love the most about my job is the fact I am now able to create/offer services and customer experiences I truly believe in.


Michelle Ramsay Design - The Fashion Expert®
Copyright Michelle Ramsay Design Limited

What drove you to set up your brand?


I have always been interested in fashion. I also love creating, being able to see my ideas come to life.

I have been thinking about launching my own brand for a couple of years. However, I was too busy to really work on it.

But last year, something triggered in my mind. After giving birth to my son Leo, I suddenly felt the need to focus on what makes me truly happy. I was finally ready to take up this new challenge !


How long did the launch take from concept to product?


It has been a long process!

First, I took some time to gather all my ideas, to create a business plan and set up the business.

Once I knew exactly which direction I wanted to take (and aware of the fact I am not an expert), I have hired skilled professionals to help me in this process.

We have worked hard on every single before seeing this concept come to life!

To sum up, I would say it takes some time, hard work and determination to launch a new brand.


ree
Copyright LIA M.W

What have been your main challenges with regard to being new to the fashion industry?


To my mind, the hardest part is to get some visibility.

Being new to the fashion industry means starting from zero, and building brand awareness is not an easy task.  


Which of my services have helped the most and why?


Fashion design : Launching a brand wouldn’t be possible without and skilled fashion designer.

Michelle is very talented and she has been very patient to bring my ideas to life.  

Mentoring : our sessions covered different subjects such as project timelines, manufacturer selection, sampling, visibility / brand awareness.

This mentoring  helped me having a better understanding of the fashion industry, and to prioritise tasks.


What are your plans for the brand in 2019?

My plans are to build brand awareness by focusing on social medias and marketing, and sell the first stocks.

Then if everything goes well, I would like to launch a wider range of products for the Autumn / Winter collection.


You can see more online at http://lia-mw.com/

and follow the label here https://www.instagram.com/lia_m.w/


I recently worked with Rose Bay, premium men's swimwear brand providing consultation, factory packs and general guidance on the manufacture process. Joe and the team were great to work with and had such a refreshing business model.


Rose Bay Mens Swimshorts
Copyright Rose Bay

Can you introduce yourself and the brand?


I’m Joe Viner, the co-founder and CEO of Rose Bay, the tailored swim short brand offering customers a high-quality product at a fraction of the cost of our competitors.


Rose Bay was conceived to help guys look better on the beach. While living in Australia, I would see first-hand how bad some of the swim shorts being worn were. After looking into the industry, a few boutique brands we’re trying to sell a high-end product that would mean men look good on the beach and transition into a bar or restaurant without looking out of place. The problem was that these limited options were priced incredibly high at around £150-£200 – hardly accessible pricing.

With that in mind myself and two others (Harry Simonis and Charles Kedwards) set up Rose Bay with the goal of creating a tailored swim-short taking inspiration from the Sydney beach culture and lifestyle. Using exactly the same materials as the brands charging £150+ but with a fresh innovative design.

Part of this mission was to incorporate price transparency so the consumer could see exactly where their money was going.


What was your background prior to launching in the fashion industry?


I worked in Wine and Champagne importation in the UK and Australia.

What drove you to set up your brand?


A gap that we saw in the market for a brand of tailored swim shorts that could transition from beach to a bar without a 5-7 x markup that had become common place.


Rose Bay Menswear
Copyright Rose Bay

How long did the launch take from concept to product?


11 months. It took so long due to the sampling phase of the process and making sure the factory suited the company and quality the product needed.


What have been your main challenges with regard to being new to the fashion industry?


Both of my partners are a lot more experienced in the industry than myself. So with any issues that encountered or questions I had I would refer to either of them or you.

The main challenge that Rose Bay has encountered is finding a factory/ manufacture that could bring our vision to reality. This was the most time consuming and also frustrating part of the 11 months from concept to launch.


If you could go back in time knowing what you know now, are there any changes you would have made to how you started out with the brand or launch?


We’ve made a fair few mistakes on the way and taken a bit longer than we’ve wanted but that’s all part of the process. I do wish we’d come to you sooner but apart from that I wouldn’t change a thing.


Rose Bay Mens Swimswear
Copyright Rose Bay

Which of my services have helped the most and why?


Your help with the design and in depth technical packs allowed us to begin seriously sampling our vision in a way we had struggled to beforehand. Not only that but your willingness to answer questions and queries that you thought were probably a bit silly.


Is there a top piece of advice you’d give other startups considering launching a brand?

Do it!

The one thing I hear all the time from people when discussing Rose Bay is their own idea and vision for a startup. Unfortunately, the vast majority of these people don’t go through with it.

We now live in a time where brands are born out of bedrooms. Brands like Gymshark using Shopify are taking on some of the most established brands in the world like Nike and Adidas. All you need is an internet connection and an idea.


What are your plans for the brand in 2019?


We have various new colours and products in the pipeline.

We plan on taking the formula and brand behind redesigning tailored swim shorts and applying it to other summer products becoming a store that specialises in summer fashion wear for men.


You can shop with Rosebay and find more about their brand values here:


https://shoprosebay.com

https://www.instagram.com/rosebay__/


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